Last minutes wine thoughts for Easter Sunday...

“Mouton Rothschild IS a claret and I’ve smelt that aftershave before. And both times, I’ve smelt a rat.”

Sean Connery, ‘Diamonds Are forever.’

It’s Easter again, but not as we know it. Nothing is quite as we know it at the moment. You may be alone, certainly you can’t visit family and friends, but there is still food to be eaten and wine to be drunk. Easter is a lovely time to indulge, if you’ve got the patience to wait seven hours in a queue for your leg of lamb. Or shoulder, shoulder is just as good. Cook it slowly, slowly, slowly at a low, low heat for many, many hours (seven actually) with some garlic, carrots, onions, rosemary etc., and it will literally fall off the bone. Or try it in the more classic English way with butter, garlic, rosemary and a mint sauce. Do what you like – you’re the chef, not me – I’m just here to write about wine. One of the consequences of all my wine work drying up has been my wine cellar has also dried up, necessitating the actual purchasing of wine from the shops. And on a budget too, of course … the ignominy of these first world problems! The consolation is discovering new wines, and finding that these days some real bargains can be had for less than ten pounds.

                Given that we’re having lamb, what should we be drinking? Bordeaux and lamb are a classic pairing. Bordeaux can be tricky, there is so much of it, and in the lower price range blandness can be a real issue. However, they have upped their game due to the competition from new world wines and I recommend the following:

I’ve stopped going to M&S since social distancing measures came in. I refuse to wait in a mile-long queue. It is, however, my loss as their six-pound generic Bordeaux is a steal. Balanced with slight tannins and some sweet fruit, it’s hardly a celebratory wine but in these times of austerity, give it a go. It will be merlot dominated so on the softer side but it’s worth getting a bottle or two. To digress slightly, geographically that is, another gem from M&S that would go well with lamb is the Tapa Roja. Not Rioja; Roja. It’s made in a small and spectacularly located wine region in the mountains of South-East Spain, called Yecla, where the altitude cools things a little and the Monastrell grape thrives. Known as Mourvèdre in the south of France, where it is commonly used as a blending grape in places such as the Rhône and Provence, here it is the sole grape and very interesting it is too. It has a bit of punch, plenty of flavour, red and black fruits, a little spice, and soft tannins. I doubt there’s much available at the moment but if there is, nab it.

                Returning to Bordeaux, another beauty I discovered from Waitrose was the Esprit De Puisseguin. It’s around nine pounds at the moment, down from its usual fourteen, and it’s spectacular. Merlot dominated with a little Cabernet Sauvignon and perhaps Petit Verdot (I didn’t check), it is made on the right-bank – St. Emillion country – where Merlot dominates. Beautifully balanced, smooth and silky, I’m going to try and get some today, I don’t care how long I have to wait. Drink with lamb, you will temporarily forget the world’s issues, at least for a little while.

                Sticking with Bordeaux, Sainsbury’s Bordeaux Claret – yes, a Bordeaux is a Claret, sad they feel the need to tell us but I guess people have to have things spelt out for them – from 2016 is delicious. Not perfumed like the Puisseguin but it’s half the price (around seven pounds) and has a lovely balance of fruit, tannins and subtle oak. And what is their first food matching recommendation on the bottle? Roast lamb, of course.

One other wine I discovered, this time from South Africa, is Waitrose’s own label Pinotage. It’s around seven pounds, but it does the job. Nice weight on the palate, smooth, lots of red fruits. It goes down very easily, and all profits go to supporting the local community where the wine is made in the beautiful Stellenbosch region, east of Cape Town. Pinotage has a bit of a bad reputation and reputations can take a long time to change in wine, but I’m a fan. This is on the easy drinking side, not too complex or fancy but very effective – much like the South African Rugby side.

                Anyway, I hope this is of use to you if you’re still planning on getting some red for Easter Sunday. Do enjoy and raise a glass to loved ones and friends whom you can’t be with at this time.