Austria-A christmas dark horse.

Got your Christmas wines yet? It may depend on your Christmas lunch but regardless it’s time to think about Austria if you some want some interesting food friendly reds that are just a little different. This article was inspired by one particular red I enjoyed recently but there are plenty of gems to be had. Austria is perhaps better known, certainly among Sommeliers and other dedicated followers for its white wines and for good reason. Riesling and particularly the native Grüner Veltliner- both of which are highly recommended -. Grüner’s inspiration or barometer would seem to be Burgundy but that may be an insult to Austrians. As a comparative region I do think it works in any case; going from more mineral driven whites to richer oakier styles. One general characteristic tends to be a white pepper quality adding to its suitability with food but there are plenty with the freshness to be a good aperitif as well.

         But I’m here to talk about reds as 'tis the season for red wine. Austria shares obvious similarities to Germany but reds in particular tend to be fuller and more intense and in my opinion more interesting than German wines, not to take anything away from them. The wine I tasted recently made from the Blaufrankisch grape was tremendous; a spicy nose with black fruits, a deep intense colour with good tannins, good acidity and smooth on the palate. Perfect with game, or any dark meat really. And most importantly not like anything else you might try. That’s the real fun.  Austria is worth discovering for that reason. Like Portugal it tends to use its own grapes, particularly with reds. They do good Pinot Noir, Spätburgunder as they call it, but the natives should keep you busy. St. Laurent, Zweigelt and Blaufrankisch are a good start. As a general rule, St. Laurent tend to be pretty full bodied, Zweigelt a little more towards the finesse but discover for yourself, if you can, you won’t be disappointed.

            In fact, you could match your entire Christmas dinner with Austrian wines as they also do fantastic sweet wines in Austria. Look for ones from Burgenland, excellent sticky and golden, very much in the mould of a Sauterne but with their own character, just like the whites and reds. In these days of generic blandness that’s no bad thing.

“Fröhliche Weinachten” as they say in Vienna!

Some Christmas beer suggestions...

Beer, I wonder who invented beer?

          I’ve always liked beer but when younger I think I always liked the idea of a beer as much if not more than the reality. Particularly American beer. They always made it look more glamourous; well to me at least in the late 80’s. This was before the days of hipsters and craft beers. The craft beer movement in Britain is young, having been started off by brewers in the USA in the 1970’s who I guess were a bit fed up of the mass production and blandification of beer,  it eventually found its way over here. The US like Britain has a strong brewing culture and thankfully someone decided to re-ignite that culture. The consequence is that in Britain the options and quality and excitement of beer have been completely revolutionized in the last ten years.

            Twenty years ago, it was American/New world bottled beers that dominated, well for people like me anyway; maybe not for farmers in Cumbria. This was not craft beer of course; this was still mass produced but bottled beer was all the rage. Bland beer in cool bottles. Michelob, Rolling Rock, Bud etc. The epitome of bland but they worked for non-discerning posers like me. Real Ale drinkers were different. Hairy gits who took it all far too seriously and looked down at people who drank lager. Now that the new hairy gits, the hipsters have taken over, I’m not sure what became of the Real Ale crowd. I suspect they all live in deepest Suffolk now or Herefordshire, hoping to avoid the wave of trendiness that is sweeping the country.

            I think it’s great, actually, but I’m not that fussed about it all, I just like a quality beer that pleases my palate, fresh and balanced; not bland, not insipid not too intense a flavour of ‘triple hop’s' etc. Anyway…

            Traditionally i.e. since I discovered it in 2000, my favourite beer or lager was German Pilsner and probably still is in many ways. Of the four beers I’m going to mention, the first is called Furstenberg, from Bavaria. German beer laws were and are very strict, unlike in Britain, ensuring a universal quality wherever one goes but over here most people associate German beer with Becks which doesn’t say much for our taste. On a recent trip to Glasgow I went past a shop that had a sign for Furstenberg. I’d never tried it but I remember my uncle extolling its virtues when I was a kid. So I got some. It’s old school and it's a thing of wonder; lovely, clean yet complex, fresh, not gassy, just perfect lager in many ways. If you see some, get it. Superlative stuff, like a different planet from Carling and the like.

            No.2, Brew Dog, from Aberdeen I think or up that way are amongst the pioneers of the craft beer movement, certainly amongst the richest. They even have their own pubs. How is clever is that. As always with those who are commercially successful the quality may be questioned, but I can safely say, as a non-expert, their Punk IPA is magnificent. Not intensely hoppy but that unmistakable hoppy flavour that IPA’s have. Clean almost zesty, clearly made with love, like Furstenberg, the only difference is, these guys like to tell you all about it. And why not. With Furstenberg you’d probably have to write them an email in German to get any information. What they share is quality and knowhow, you can tell that from the first sip.

            Italian beers are struggling a bit, I think. Really a bit dull, not keeping up with the improvements of standards etc so it was a pleasant surprise to try one I hadn’t seen before recently that was really rather nice. A premium lager, Angelo Poretti, it sounds like an Italian beer. I had the number 4, the Originale - they have a whole list of styles- from Marks and Spencer’s. This one has quite a rich flavour particularly in comparison to the more generic Italian beers out there.  Delicious and well made. A good winter beer.

            Last but certainly not least. Scarborough Fair, from Wold Top brewery in Yorkshire. A big muscly IPA. IPA or Indian Pale Ale originated in the 18^th century in a style that guaranteed it surviving the 6 months trip to India; namely alcohol and hops.  Scarborough Fair is faithful to that style.  Sometimes they can be a bit too much for me, but this stuff is absolutely sensational. A family business, originally farmers, with an emphasis on quality raw materials and an environmentally friendly approach to farming and biodiversity, this beer is as holistic as it gets. 

      

And that is the theme I’ve realized amongst these beers, it’s quality raw materials, know-how and passion. That’s what makes a great beer, regardless of the style!