Let’s start the new year looking back shall
we? To Hogmanay that is, that’s right, New Year’s Eve as the rest of the world
calls it. We had a Scottish Italian fusion to celebrate European cooperation.
Haggis, neeps and tatties with a wonderful Barolo from the Villadoria estate,
2011 Riserva! Simple yet wonderful winter food meets sophisticated wine. It was
tremendous.
What do you actually
know about Barolo I must ask? Here’s the basics; it is grown - almost exclusively, more of that later – in
Piemonte, north–west Italy, near a town called Alba. Wonderful region,
literally as the name suggests, at the foot of the mountains, the Italian Alps,
snow-capped and spectacular. The main city is Turin, Torino, fantastic place,
home of Juventus, once my favourite European football team, when I used to like football. Home of Nutella which used to be and still is one of my favourite
things, though I’m currently “aff it” as they say in Glasgow as one spoon is
never enough.
Anyway, back to the wine. I first
discovered Barolo when I worked in a wine shop in Glasgow and I liked the fact that it is
called the wine of kings and the king of wines, that appealed to me, for some
reason? I didn’t learn much about it till a lot later – didn’t sell much of it, well any of it,
in that particular shop where Tennant's Lager was the main seller. Luckily, when
I did discover it, it turned out to be amongst my favourite wines. Almost certainly top three.
However, this is an issue. Like all so-called “great wines” it ain’t cheap. But
let’s not worry about that in the meantime.
More facts for the
geeks amongst you; the grape, Nebbiolo, as I said is grown mostly in this
region. As always, the terroir, in its physical appearance adds to the
pleasure experience. The grapes thrive on the beautiful hillsides where autumnal mists cover
the vines whilst pigs search for truffles. Unlike, those other great
“B’s” of the wine world, Bordeaux and Burgundy whose grapes have been high
jacked by the rest of the wine world, Nebbiolo remains exclusively of the
region. Maybe unlike Italian food, it just doesn’t travel well. Who knows but it
remains that bit more special, I think, for being uniquely Piemontese...
Like it’s glamourous cousin Pinot Noir from
Burgundy it has a light colour, think red-brick but this delicate hue in no way
reflects the wine. It’s big, rich and bold, yet elegant and restrained too. Riserva
status, like Gran Reserva in Spain, indicates 5 years ageing, including three years in oak, before release.
Mine with six years subsequent years development drank perfectly, the tannins
subtle though there was still a lot of fruit so it could have waited another
five easily. I couldn’t wait. Some people believe that all Barolo needs years
before it can be drunk. This isn’t always the case. Generally, the communes to
the west, La Morra and Barolo itself are more approachable when young. Soils
differences to the east tend to create more complex reds that a need a bit of
time. Mine produced in Serralunga D’Alba fits this category. In any case, at
best; elegance, finesse and power defines this wine. There is a price to pay,
but for special occasions you can’t go wrong and it's nice to feel like a king every so often!
And as a tip, Barolo’s
little sister, Barbaresco, a little more delicate but very appealing
nevertheless is also made in the region with Nebbiolo and you won’t have to pay
nearly as much. More about that next time. And good luck with dry January...
