Pinot Noir. The Jewel of Burgundy. As I often like to start with some
facts, here we are. Burgundy is an easy one for those of you who are interested
in the grapes. White Burgundy is Chardonnay, Red is Pinot Noir. Now, there is a
tiny amount of Sauvignon Blanc made under the St. Bris appellation but it’s so
small as to be almost not worth mentioning but it does exist (there’s also
Aligoté but that’s definitely not worth mentioning). A little like the Indian
Lion. Yes, it’s true there is a single population of lions that live in India.
Did you know that? St. Bris is the
Indian lion of the wine world. Anyway this article isn’t about Burgundy or
lions.
It’s about Pinot Noir. What about it? What is it about it? It just seems to have
something, just ask that guy from the film, Sideways, he knows. Now of course
there are other places. There’s New Zealand, Chile, California and even
Australia. I say even, as much of Australia is too hot for Pinot. It’s a
sensitive soul, thin skinned and delicate. But closer to home, it’s also doing
rather well. I recently drank a Pinot Noir from Germany which inspired this
article. Germany isn’t really known for red at all as a general rule, such is the
power of association and reputation. When we think of Germany we think of Riesling
or worse Black Tower and Liebfraumilch but it’s worth exploring beyond these.
And this was a delightful example. The wine I drank, Rarus Noir, discovered at
the Chelsea Wine Fair in London, is made in a place called Baden in SW Germany
bordering France and Switzerland and it certainly has a Burgundian feel but its
own character too -And its own name. Spätburgunder as they also call in
Austria where they too, make splendid Pinot Noir -. This is the thing. Pinot varies like all
grapes according to where it’s made. But for me, the Pinot I enjoy the most
adheres to the Burgundian style or model if you like. Soft earthy tannins, a
velvety et delicate palate, a perfumed nose of sour black cherries. It’s
perhaps no surprise that being so close to Burgundy and with not dissimilar
climate it had similar style; perhaps a little more fruit but reassuringly
Pinot Noir-esque.
A lot of the new world Pinots that I’ve tried
are just a bit too intense for me, a bit too beefy. Well made, but perhaps
lacking in subtlety which for me is Pinot’s trump card. It’s a wine that
requires consideration, concentration and the right moment. Like Barbaresco and
Barolo from Piedmont, when drinking it you can’t help but think of the terroir i.e. the place the wine comes from; the vines, the morning mist. This might not be
what you’re looking for. Sometimes I’m not. If you’re in the mood for a big punchy red,
probably best to look elsewhere. If you just want a glass of red to help your
lasagne go down, no sweat but if the mood takes you there’s nothing better. And
the good news is, some of these lesser known places mean better value. Not
cheap of course, Pinot is rarely cheap but this wine, for example, which
recently won a Gold Medal in a blind tasting at The Drinks Business Awards is
more than a match for a Burgundy of similar price, around twenty pounds, though
I’ve no idea where you can buy it. The point is, exploration. Wine is about
exploration and discovery. I think that’s the thing that excites me most of all
about wine. Other than just sitting and drinking a glass of an evening, that is.
