Seems somehow timely to be writing about a hot day in the South-West of
France on this damp squib of a day in London in August. The hot day was last
June, the place was Cahors! There we were walking round this delightfully charming
yet low key city and food was on our mind. What was to be eaten remained
uncertain, there are many options but the wine was less in doubt. In wine terms
there’s only one word to associate with Cahors. It is, of course, Malbec. Now
for many of us, Malbec is synonymous with Argentina. That little relationship
has worked out rather well, but let’s not forget that they’ve been cultivating this
grape around Cahors for centuries.
Malbec or Cot as it is also known is a dark,
inky chewy black grape. This doesn’t paint a lovey picture of course, but for
those who know what they’re doing round here, this isn’t a problem. Firstly,
some merlot is normally added to soften it up a little. There is also the little matter of that
favourite thing of mine, le terroir.
In the rugged hills above Cahors, the limestone character of the soils gives a
unique personality to these wines. The cheaper ones are not necessarily that sophisticated,
certainly less palate friendly than the more fruit driven Argentine equivalent -where altitude reduces the tannic effect -
but when drunk here with the local cuisine, it is a match made in heaven. My
lunch of Duck Confit – for the first time in my life, but it was worth the
wait- was consumed with a chilled rosé as it turned out. Being hot and
lunchtime, red was out of the question, but the rosé was perfect. Made from
Malbec, obviously, in a pale pink style à la Provence with good freshness and
minerality.
And minerality leads me to the particular wine in question for this
article. A 2012 Chateau de Chambert Cahors AOC. A perfect example of the best
Cahors has to offer. The limestone and iron rich soils give an elegance,
minerality and finesse to this wine that balance the inherent power and
structure of the Malbec grape. Combined with the fruit you have a wine that
matches many dishes most perfectly. This will also last if you wish to ‘put it
down’ and at well under twenty pounds it represents excellent value for money.
That’s the thing about Malbec from Cahors. The good ones are not that expensive
and are unique. The cheaper ones to be found on supermarket shelves are usually
reasonable fun, maybe not worth writing home about so much with the mass of
competition around but if you want to spend a bit more money once in a while,
but not too much, do some research on Cahors! Even better just go there!
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