I don’t know about you but some of my favourite
moments with wine are discovering, re-discovering or just being reminded how
much you love a certain wine that you haven’t had in a while. This happened
recently with this fellow, Jordan Pulka made from a grape called Zweigelt. I’ve
talked about Austrian reds before so I won’t bore you with too many technicalities.
Austria remains essentially, I’d say, a boutique wine producer; outside of
Austria that is. That’s no bad thing on one level, but it keeps availability
rather minimal, particularly for Red wine. White Austrian wine especially, its
flagship, Grüner Vetliner is better known, more widely available and quite
trendy these days. But don’t let that put you off. It’s a fine varietal, with
a range of styles from bone dry to big and rich like a Chardonnay from Burgundy.
Anyway, I’m here to
talk about red wine, so back to the delightfully named Zweigelt. Austria’s most
planted red wine, it’s no doubt available in every restaurant in Vienna and everywhere
else over there. Lucky them. It is- this is another factor for me that make a
wine, a favourite wine- probably impossible to identify in a blind tasting.
This one had spice, lots of pepper, great depth of mostly black fruit, lovely
round tannins and medium weight on the palate.
That covers a lot of possibilities. It’s that uniqueness that makes it
such fun. This one has three years of age and could have aged a bit more. Some
Zweigelts, in fact many of them are drunk young, but this had a bit more
complexity and was all the better for it. A perfect food wine, we actually had
it after dinner, in fact, after a kind of homemade Chicken fried rice so not an
obvious match to have together but afterwards it worked perfectly, it’s pepper
and spice notes complementing our palates and the delightful fruit and mouth
filling tannins working like a low calorie port. Cheese or chocolate would have
worked perfectly, in fact, it was crying out for chocolate but we didn’t have
any so we had to make do with the wine and that was quite fine. A fascinating
and delightful wine that isn’t quite like anything else I know; I recommend it
highly though it may not be easy to find but keep your eyes peeled. Worth pursuing!
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